And this is really why I came.....after many miles of riding through an area that reminded me of west Texas around the Big Bend, we approached the high dunes we could see from a distance. I thought at first they were mountains because in the late afternoon, they were casting shadows on themselves. The camel driver was there to meet us with a string of 5 camels, called dromedaries here. There were 2 couples from Madrid going to the Bivouac Aswad. We mounted up and started out into the desert, slowly circling and climbing up and down dune after dune. About an hour out, the sun was setting behind us, so we dismounted to take photos. The Spaniards didn't speak English so I was able to practice my Spanish and we enjoyed each other's company.. It took about 1.5 hours to reach the camp and it was exactly as pictured on their website. We were taken to our individual tents and they were amazing, large enough for a queen bed, a sitting area with a sofa and table, and, behind a tied back curtain, a full bath with a shower. Camping in the desert on the luxury level but middle class budget. Check out their rates! We were greeted by the staff and the traditional cup of mint tea, then relaxed and showered. Everything was solar powered, of course, and the outside temp was 98 degrees, so the shower was really refreshing. Next came dinner, out in the open (even though we had the option of eating in the large tented dining room), and the table was set as beautifully as a 5-star restaurant, but with water in the wine glasses. Such is Ramadan in a Muslim country! Dinner began with a gorgeous salad of mixed veggies, arranged separately on the plate and we all helped ourselves from the large central platter, Arab style, although we used silverware. Next was the entre - a big platter of grilled beef and chicken, on a bed of freshly-made French fries. Deserts were a huge platter of sliced watermelon and other kinds of melons. After dinner, the table was cleared and removed, and the fun began. The 5 men who staffed the camp brought out their drums, all different. Shane could tell you what they were, but I can't. The musicians were excellent and we enjoyed their drumming and chanting as we sat on big cushions around a fire pit. One by one, they began to include us in the drumming circle. When my turn came, I was given the djembe! (Funny coincidence because that was my HS graduation gift to Shane a couple of weeks ago!). Then dancing began and we had a night of fun. After awhile I needed some quiet time, left the camp and walked deeper into the desert, easily done because there was a full moon. After meditation, I practiced some Yin Yoga on the warm sand. The silence was incredible - all one could hear was the wind, all one could see were the dunes stretching out into infinity, all one could feel was the warmth of the sand beneath the body and the coolness of the night desert wind. I loved it. I didn't get to see the stars into infinity but the full moon casting shadows on the dunes was a sight to remember. Perhaps I'll come back when there is no moon for a different kind of experience.
In the morning, we all awakened early to see the sunrise over the dunes, then enjoyed a full breakfast with scrambled eggs shaped like tortillas, different cheeses and meats, hard-boiled eggs, freshly squeezed OJ, & several different kinds of breads and a platter of mixed fruits. We didn't depart on our camels hungry! The guides were there to greet us to continue our journey throughout Morocco. More about that tomorrow!
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You are the most amazing person I've ever known, Helen - so filled with a sense of spirituality & adventure. So pleased to have caught up on your blog of this amazing journey. Much love, Sallie
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